Last Sunday I spent much of the day in Akureyri, writing the last blog post and incinerating pizza ingredients. All that molten cheese must have awakened the volcano gods, as we shall see in a bit. A teaser. While I was writing, Jon was teaching Axel how to drive. Icelandic gravel roads are probably a good place to learn: they have massive unpopulated stretches, wide visibility, and little to crash into. On top of that, Axel got bonus lessons in how to drive a stick-shift as well as how to drive across rivers. That last bit made me very glad to be back in the living room, writing and eating burnt pepperoni. The next morning we set forth for Reykjavik, the final stop in our Icelandic adventure. Because of logistical snafus, I ended up with a ticket to fly there, while Jon and Axel drove the Dacia Duster all the way back. On the way they played six disc golf courses, leaving at 9 am and not getting to Reykjavik until 10 pm. I had a much different itinerary. At 10 am I strapped on my bac