Day 8 - Surfboard Obtained

 Today I rode a shorter fiberglass board with Christopher Dalton, a surf instructor I found on Craigslist (before I even came to Maui). This was the first time he was available.  It was a good lesson. He taught me some wave lore. For instance, if a wave is 4 ft high it will break where the water is 2 ft deep. Waves break when the depth of the water is roughly half the height of the wave. There are exceptions but it is a good guideline.

We stood on shore looking at the break for a bit and the info gathered there helped him put us in good position for catching waves. Balance on the shorter board was challenging; I had to be more precise with my weight distribution. Feet needed to be centered. It was good training. I was able to ride several waves on that board and even maneuver it around other people. The shorter board was way easier to turn.

Some of the sets were unusually large. One set we just had crashing on our heads because we had not gotten back out far enough yet. Giant wave after wave, board dangling from the leash, diving under each one. Fun and humbling.

In the post-surf session buzz I got on the interwebs and found a surfboard of my own. This nice Swiss lady, Nicole, is renting me her loaner board for the rest of my time here. The board is a 10 ft foam top. Now I can pop out at sunrise and sunset or whenever. Cowabunga.

The new board, strapped to the rental Kia with $8 hardware store straps and a cut-in-half pool noodle.

That’s a Wrap Maui had B&G on the menu again today so I ordered a nice post-surf breakfast. To go. I plated this at the condo. Biscuits slightly sweet and the gravy was very much infused with sausage flavor, just the way I like it.

Surfing is worth all the boo boos but there are a lot. This is my surf rash, I have it on the top of both legs but wearing leggings today seemed to prevent it from getting any worse.

Tagged the reef hard with my left ankle, and just moments afterwards a boy lost control of his board and it hit me in the arm.

Both knees pretty much wrecked from the friction. I can feel my heartbeat in my right knee as I type this. Christoper said to squirt lime juice on the wounds, a trick he learned from his time living in Samoa. I did it and, boy howdy, that made me feel alive and in the moment. Nothing seems infected though, so hopefully it is working.